Sour Soup Fish (酸汤鱼)

中文简介

酸汤鱼是贵州黔东南苗族侗族的看家菜，也是贵州菜的灵魂。核心是"酸汤"：用本地小西红柿（毛辣果）、辣椒、糯米和山泉水密封发酵数日而成，酸香醇厚、带着奇妙的发酵鲜，是贵州人"三天不吃酸，走路打蹿蹿"的生活哲学。做法：酸汤加木姜子（山胡椒油）、辣椒熬开，下入活鱼（草鱼、江团、稻花鱼皆可）煮熟，配蘸水（辣椒面、折耳根、葱花、木姜子油调的蘸料）。鱼肉鲜嫩、汤酸辣开胃，喝一口汤，酸、辣、香在嘴里炸开，越煮越够味。凯里是吃酸汤鱼最出名的地方。

English

Sour soup fish (酸汤鱼, suāntāngyú) is the signature of the Miao and Dong peoples of southeastern Guizhou — and in the opinion of many travelers, one of China's great original regional dishes. The soul is the suan tang (酸汤), a fermented stock aged over days from small heirloom tomatoes, chilli, glutinous rice, and mountain spring water. It develops a deep, mellow sourness with a funky, almost dairy-like depth that no other province replicates. Live fish — river fish or rice-paddy carp — are simmered in the broth with lemongrass-like mujiangzi oil (木姜子), served with a fiery dipping paste of chili, cilantro leaves, fish mint (zhe'ergen), and more mujiang oil.

Where to eat: Kaili is the acid-trip capital — Miao restaurants around the ancient town serve it over charcoal hotpots. Also superb in Guiyang. ¥68–158 ($10–22) for a fish hotpot for two.

Pro tips: Drink the broth early — before the fish fat clouds it. The dipping paste is the transmutation point: meat meets paste, and the flavor doubles. Ask for extra mujiangzi oil if you love aromatics; it's the secret.