Yulong River Bamboo Rafting, Yangshuo

The Yulong River (遇龙河 Yùlóng Hé) is the Li River's smaller, calmer tributary west of Yangshuo, and rafting it is the single best thing to do in the area. You sit in two plastic chairs lashed to a bamboo raft while a local poler pushes you downstream past bamboo groves, buffalo standing in the shallows, and karst peaks that lean right over the water. There is no engine and no loudspeaker, which is exactly the difference from the big Li River cruise boats.

Every kilometre or so the raft goes over a low stone weir — a metre-high drop that soaks your feet and produces a small shriek from everyone on board. It is the most fun part.

Pricing works per raft, not per person, and has settled around ¥255-320 ($36-45) for two people depending on section and season. Trips run 40 minutes to 1.5 hours; the longer Jima Village to Gongnong Bridge stretch is worth the extra money. Book through your guesthouse the evening before to skip the ticket-window scrum.

Honest expectations: this is a managed tourist operation, not a secret. In high season there will be other rafts in your photos, sometimes a lot of them. Go at 8:00 when the gates open or after 16:00 and the traffic thins out dramatically, with better light either way.

Tipping is not expected, but polers work hard in the sun and ¥20 ($3) is appreciated. Many will happily stop for photos if you ask — 停一下 (tíng yīxià), stop a moment.